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Below No Show Sock
Materials:
1 Ball of Sock weight yarn approximately 3 oz.
5 Size 2US double pointed needles (this can be done using 4)
1 Ball of Sock weight yarn approximately 3 oz.
5 Size 2US double pointed needles (this can be done using 4)
5 Size 00US double pointed needles (this can be done using 4)
Size G Hook and waste yarn
Cast On 33 stitches for each sock.
Using a provisional cast-on, cast on 33 stitches (this will be half the circumference of the sock).
Provisional Cast-On:
Using waste yarn, crochet a chain that is a few chain stitches longer than the number of knit stitches you need. Knit into the spine of the back side of the chain, 33 stitches.
Purl back across stitches.
Row 1: Sl 1, K until last St. WYF Sl the last St as if to P.
Row 2: Wrap the yarn loosely around the first St and Sl as if to P, P across to 1 before the last St, WYF Sl last St.
Repeat Row 1 & 2, 9 more times.
Your Toe is now half way done.
With right side facing you. This will be a knit row, you will now begin incorporating your wraps and closing up the holes to form the cup for the toe of the sock. If you prefer a narrow toe, continue with Row 1 & 2. If you want a more square toe do less of Row 1 & 2. The working stitches in the middle will determine the width of the point of the sock.
Row 1: K across middle St to the first wrapped stitch. Use the tip of your needle to pick up the wrap from the back side of fabric and place it on the left needle and knit it together with the St. WYF, Wrap the next stitch (so that it now has two wraps) Sl next St then turn.
Row 2: Sl the first (double-wrapped) St and P across to the first unworked, wrapped St. Pick up the wrap from the back of the fabric and P it together with the St. Wrap the next St and turn.
Continue until you have worked all the stitches and you once again have 33 working stitches.
Unzipping the Provisional Cast-On:
Insert the tip of your needle into the stitch you knit up from the Provisional Cast-On. Then undue the tail of your waste yarn by pushing in back through the last loop and unzip the chain slowly as you pick up the live stitches from your Cast-On.
You now have a total of 66 stitches.
Knit in the round.
Top of the Foot
Round 1: K all Sts.
Repeat the established pattern for 1 inch.
Bind off 33 St. K33
Bottom of Foot:
Row 1: Sl 1, P32
Row 2: Sl 1, K32
Row 3: Sl 1, P32
Repeat Rows 2 & 3 until you are 1 inch from heel of the desired length.
Turning the Heel:
With the Bottom of the Foot facing you, you will begin the heel.
Row 1: Sl 1, K until last St. WYF Sl the last St as if to P.
Row 2: Wrap the yarn loosely around the first St and Sl as if to P, P across to 1 before the last St, WYF Sl last St.
Repeat Row 1 & 2, 4 more times.
Your Heel is now half way done.
With right side facing you. This will be a knit row, you will now begin incorporating your wraps and closing up the holes to form the cup for the heel of the sock.
Row 1: K across middle St to the first wrapped stitch. Use the tip of your needle to pick up the wrap from the back side of fabric and place it on the left needle and knit it together with the St. WYF, Wrap the next stitch (so that it now has two wraps) Sl next St then turn.
Row 2: Sl the first (double-wrapped) St and P across to the first unworked, wrapped St. Pick up the wrap from the back of the fabric and P it together with the St. Wrap the next St and turn.
Continue until you have worked all the stitches and you once again have 33 working stitches.
Bind off all stitches.
Edging:
Using Size 00US Dpns, pick up all stitches around the inside of the sock.
spread stitches evenly among Dpns.
I-Cord Bind Off Edging:
K3, Sl knitted 3 St back to left needle Purlwise.
K2, K2TBL, Sl 3 St back to left needle Purlwise.
Continue until you have the last 3 stitches. Then K3TBL pulling through.
Weave in ends.
Optional:
Using elastic beading wire and beading needle you can run a line through the I-Cord. This will give some gather.
You can use a little a dab of silicone under the edging at the heel to help keep the sock in place. I used E6000 glue and a wet finger to form it into an oval. The glue holds up well in the washer and dryer and gives enough grab to keep the back of the sock in place while having shoes on.
Size G Hook and waste yarn
Cast On 33 stitches for each sock.
Using a provisional cast-on, cast on 33 stitches (this will be half the circumference of the sock).
Provisional Cast-On:
Using waste yarn, crochet a chain that is a few chain stitches longer than the number of knit stitches you need. Knit into the spine of the back side of the chain, 33 stitches.
Purl back across stitches.
Row 1: Sl 1, K until last St. WYF Sl the last St as if to P.
Row 2: Wrap the yarn loosely around the first St and Sl as if to P, P across to 1 before the last St, WYF Sl last St.
Repeat Row 1 & 2, 9 more times.
Your Toe is now half way done.
With right side facing you. This will be a knit row, you will now begin incorporating your wraps and closing up the holes to form the cup for the toe of the sock. If you prefer a narrow toe, continue with Row 1 & 2. If you want a more square toe do less of Row 1 & 2. The working stitches in the middle will determine the width of the point of the sock.
Row 1: K across middle St to the first wrapped stitch. Use the tip of your needle to pick up the wrap from the back side of fabric and place it on the left needle and knit it together with the St. WYF, Wrap the next stitch (so that it now has two wraps) Sl next St then turn.
Row 2: Sl the first (double-wrapped) St and P across to the first unworked, wrapped St. Pick up the wrap from the back of the fabric and P it together with the St. Wrap the next St and turn.
Continue until you have worked all the stitches and you once again have 33 working stitches.
Unzipping the Provisional Cast-On:
Insert the tip of your needle into the stitch you knit up from the Provisional Cast-On. Then undue the tail of your waste yarn by pushing in back through the last loop and unzip the chain slowly as you pick up the live stitches from your Cast-On.
You now have a total of 66 stitches.
Knit in the round.
Top of the Foot
Round 1: K all Sts.
Repeat the established pattern for 1 inch.
Bind off 33 St. K33
Bottom of Foot:
Row 1: Sl 1, P32
Row 2: Sl 1, K32
Row 3: Sl 1, P32
Repeat Rows 2 & 3 until you are 1 inch from heel of the desired length.
Turning the Heel:
With the Bottom of the Foot facing you, you will begin the heel.
Row 1: Sl 1, K until last St. WYF Sl the last St as if to P.
Row 2: Wrap the yarn loosely around the first St and Sl as if to P, P across to 1 before the last St, WYF Sl last St.
Repeat Row 1 & 2, 4 more times.
Your Heel is now half way done.
With right side facing you. This will be a knit row, you will now begin incorporating your wraps and closing up the holes to form the cup for the heel of the sock.
Row 1: K across middle St to the first wrapped stitch. Use the tip of your needle to pick up the wrap from the back side of fabric and place it on the left needle and knit it together with the St. WYF, Wrap the next stitch (so that it now has two wraps) Sl next St then turn.
Row 2: Sl the first (double-wrapped) St and P across to the first unworked, wrapped St. Pick up the wrap from the back of the fabric and P it together with the St. Wrap the next St and turn.
Continue until you have worked all the stitches and you once again have 33 working stitches.
Bind off all stitches.
Edging:
Using Size 00US Dpns, pick up all stitches around the inside of the sock.
spread stitches evenly among Dpns.
I-Cord Bind Off Edging:
K3, Sl knitted 3 St back to left needle Purlwise.
K2, K2TBL, Sl 3 St back to left needle Purlwise.
Continue until you have the last 3 stitches. Then K3TBL pulling through.
Weave in ends.
Optional:
Using elastic beading wire and beading needle you can run a line through the I-Cord. This will give some gather.
You can use a little a dab of silicone under the edging at the heel to help keep the sock in place. I used E6000 glue and a wet finger to form it into an oval. The glue holds up well in the washer and dryer and gives enough grab to keep the back of the sock in place while having shoes on.
