PCOS Provisional Cast On Socks by Jenny Fish

PCOS The Provisional Cast On Socks

These are two at a time toe up magic loop provisional cast on socks! Wow that is a mouth full!!

This is the first time I have used the Provisional Cast on method for Socks and I really like this method for getting the socks started. I found it less fussy than other methods and I felt like I was making progress much faster with less effort.

They have a tiny mock cables making up this simple but elegant design. The small twists in the fabric represent to me, the twists of life. The provisional cast on represents that sometimes you just have to start in the middle, then go back and pick up the stitches to make something whole.

Materials:
I'm using a wool blend sock weight yarn from my stash. When the project is done I will let you know how much yarn I used.

Size 2US needles with a 40" cable
Size G Hook and waste yarn

Cast On 28 (32) stitches for each sock.

Using a provisional cast-on, cast on 28 (32) stitches (this will be half the circumference of the sock).

Provisional Cast-On:
Using waste yarn, crochet a chain that is a few chain stitches longer than the number of knit stitches you need. Knit into the spine of the back side of the chain, 28 (32) stitches.

Purl back across stitches.

Row 1, Sock 1: Knit 27 (31) stitches. WYF Slip the last stitch as if to Purl
Row 1, Sock 2: Knit 27 (31) stitches. WYF Slip the last stitch as if to Purl. Turn Work.

Row 2, Sock 1: Wrap the yarn loosely around the first stitch and slip stitch as if to Purl, Purl across to before the last stitch 26 (30). Move the working yarn as if to Knit and Slip last stitch.
Row 2, Sock 2: Wrap the yarn loosely around the first stitch and slip stitch as if to Purl, Purl across to before the last stitch 26 (30). Move the working yarn as if to Knit and Slip last stitch. Turn Work

Row 3, Sock 1: Wrap the yarn loosely around the first stitch and Slip, knit across to the last stitch before the unworked stitch 25 (29), WYF Slip remaining stitches.
Row 3, Sock 2: Wrap the yarn loosely around the first stitch and Slip, knit across to the last stitch before the unworked stitch 25 (29), WYF Slip the next stitch and turn.

Row 4, Sock 1: Wrap the yarn loosely around the first stitch and Slip, Purl across to the last stitch before the unworked stitch 24 (28), WYF Slip remaining stitches
Row 4, Sock 2: Wrap the yarn loosely around the first stitch and Slip, Purl across to the last stitch before the unworked stitch 24 (28), WYF Slip the next stitch and turn

Repeat Rows 3 and 4: Remember to slip the unworked stitches from each sock so that you can work two at a time. When you have 7 (9) wraps on the left side, 14 (14) working stitches in the middle, and 7 (9) wrapped on the right side. (remember to slip the unworked stitches for each sock back and forth so you can work 2 socks at once)

Your Toe is now half way done.

With right side facing you. This will be a knit row, you will now begin incorporating your wraps and closing up the holes to form the cup for the toes of the socks. If you prefer a narrow toe, continue with Row 3 and Row 4. If you want a more square toe do less of Row 3 and Row 4. The working stitches in the middle will determine the width of the point of the sock.

Row 1, Sock 1: With 7 (9) [Note: these numbers will decrease by 1 every time you repeat this row] stitches on right needle Knit across the 14 [Note: this numbers will increase every time you repeat this row] middle stitches across to the first wrapped stitch. Use the tip of your needle to pick up the wrap from the back side of fabric and place it on the left needle and knit it together with the stitch. WYF, Wrap the next stitch (so that it now has two wraps) and slip remaining stitches.
Row 1, Sock 2: Slip the 7 (9) [Note: these numbers will decrease by 1 every time you repeat this row] wrap stitches, then Knit across the 14 [Note: this numbers will increase every time you repeat this row] middle stitches to the first wrapped stitch. Use the tip of your needle to pick up the wrap from the back side of fabric and place it on the left needle and knit it together with the stitch. WYF, Wrap the next stitch (so that it now has two wraps) and slip then turn.

Row 2, Sock 1: Slip the first (double-wrapped) stitch and purl across to the first unworked, wrapped stitch. Pick up the wrap from the back of the fabric and purl it together with the stitch. Wrap the next stitch then slip remaining stitches.
Row 2, Sock 2: Slip the 6 (8) wrapped stitches, then purl across to the first unworked, wrapped stitch. Pick up the wrap from the back of the fabric and purl it together with the stitch. Wrap the next stitch and turn.

Continue until you have worked all the stitches and you once again have 28 (32) working stitches.

Unzipping the Provisional Cast-On:

Insert the tip of your needle into the stitch you knit up from the Provisional Cast-On. Then undue the tail of your waste yarn by pushing in back through the last loop and unzip the chain slowly as you pick up the live stitches from your Cast-On.

You now have a total of 56 (64) stitches.

Knit in the round using magic loop for 2 rounds.

Top of the foot: (Rounds will be the same for both Socks)
Round 1: K1 (P2, 1X1 Cable) until the last 3 stitches, P2, K1
Round 2-4: K1 (P2, K2) until the last 3 stitches, P2, K1

Bottom of Foot:
Knit all stitches

Repeat the established pattern until you are 2 1/2 inches from the back of the heel of the person you are making the sock for.

Turning the Heel:
With the Bottom of the Foot facing you, you will begin the heel.


Row 1, Sock 1: Slip the first stitch then K27 (31)
Row 1, Sock 2: Slip the first stitch then K27 (31)
Row 2, Sock 1: Slip the first stitch then P26 (30), then slip the last stitch
Row 2, Sock 2: Slip the first stitch then P26 (30), Turn


Repeat Rows 1 & 2: Until you have 14 (16) slip stiches on the side of your work. These stitches look like a chain on the side of the heel flap. Then repeat Row 1, so you will finish with the Purl side facing you.

Short Rows:
With the Purl side facing you.
Row 1: SOCK 1: Slip the first stitch, P14 (20), P2togo, P1(then slip the remaining stitches)
Row 1: SOCK 2: Slip the first stitch, P14 (16), P2togo, P1 (turn)

ROW 2: SOCK 1: S1, K1 6 times, SSK, K1  (then slip the remaining stitches)
ROW 2: SOCK 2: Slip the first stitch, S1, K1 6 times, SSK K1 (turn)

ROW 3: SOCK 1: S1, Purl to 1 before the gap, P2togo, P1 (then slip the remaining stitches)
ROW 3: SOCK 2: S1, Knit to 1 before the gap, SSK, K1 (turn)

Row 4, Sock 1: S1, K1 to 1 before the gap, SSK, K1 (slip remaining stitches)
Row 4. Sock 2: Slip stitches to working yarn, K1, S1 to 1 before the gap, turn

Repeat Rows 2 and 3 until you have 14 (16) stiches remaining.

With right side facing.

SOCK 1: S1, K1 until 2 stitches remain, SSK. Then pick up 14 (16) stitches from the heel flap plus 1 from the row below the first stich at the top of the foot (this will help close the gap at the join).
SOCK 2: S1, K1 until 2 stitches remain, SSK. Then pick up 14 (16) stitches from the heel flap plus 1 from the row below the first stich at the top of the foot (this will help close the gap at the join).

The front of the socks should be facing you at this point. Knit across the top of the foot in the established pattern.
.
Leave this stich on the left needle and pull the right needle

SOCK 1: Knit into the stitch below (this closes the gap) pick up 14 (16) stitches. Knit remaining heel stitches.

SOCK 2:  Knit into the stitch below (this closes the gap) pick up 14 (16) stitches. Knit remaining heel stitches.

Gusset Decrease:

With top of foot facing. Work across the top in the established knit pattern.

Heel Decrease.

Round 1: K15 (17), PM, (Sl, K1) over 14 (16) stitches, PM, K15 (17) (Repeat for Sock 2), Knit across the top of both socks in established pattern.

Round 2: K1, SSK, Knit to marker, S1, K1 until next marker, Knit until 3 stitches of this side, K2tog, K1 (Repeat for Sock 2), Knit across the top of both socks in established pattern.

Round 3: K14 (16), S1, K1 to next marker, K14 (16) (Repeat for Sock 2), Knit across top of both socks in established pattern.

Repeat Rounds 2 and 3 until you have 28 (32) stitches for the back of each sock.

Then knit both sides of each sock in the established pattern for the top of the foot until desired length of Leg.

Ribbing & Bind Off:

Change to K1, P1 ribbing for an inch. Then Bind off in desired method.

How I learned to Knit

Welcome to Jenny Fish Knits.
This is my blog sharing my knitting adventures.

Let me start by sharing how I originally got into knitting...

February 2007

My oldest son Caleb was in 5th grade. He was struggling at school and I had to place him in a special school for behavior issues. This school was a therapeutic school, it require parental interaction and it became very clear to me that I needed to stop working and focus on my son and his needs. After budgeting and planning I quit my day job and became a full time stay-at-home mother. After my son settled in and his behavior issues settled down I found myself with blocks of free time that I didn't know what to do with. As a young girl my Grandmother had showed me how to cross stitch, crochet and do needle work. I tried cross stitching again, but my eyes didn't seem to want to focus on the tiny holes in the Aida cloth. When I tried to crochet everything turned out like an upside down bikini bottom and I didn't seem to place my hook in the right place.

One day I was chatting with by best friend Becca, and out of no where I stated I wanted to learn how to knit. Let me take a second to introduce Becca. She is my partner in crime, the one that has always has my back, stands by my side and encourages me to be the person I am. She has amazing faith in me and always lifts me up when I'm down, and pulls me back to reality when I need a swift kick in the butt. If ever their was such a thing as a soul sister, kindred spirit or sister from another mother... That is My Becca! If you know me, you know the name Becca.

Okay, so back to me blurting out that I wanted to learn how to knit. To my surprise she said she did too! She set out looking for a knitting class and found one at a craft store in Oklahoma City. She signed us up for the class. The class cost us $20 a person and lasted two hours. We got our supplies and went to the class. Now, this class was a beginners class. By that, I mean a true beginners class. We spent two hours waiting on the rest of the class to learn how to make a slip knot.

By the time we got out of the class we were both disappointed in how slow the class moved. How the instructor didn't seem to be a fit for us. After the class we went home and I searched YouTube for videos on knitting. I found a few that seemed promising. I took out my aluminum needles and cheap acrylic yarn and set in front of the computer determined I was going to figure out how to do this Cast On sling shot looking thing. I played with the needles and yarn for hours. Eventually I got it!

I called Becca and we made plans for her to come over so I could show her my new found trick. Between Becca and I, we figure out the Cast On, the Knit stitch and after some time we learned how to purl. We mucked our way through a few dish clothes and soon we learned scarves and baby blankets.

By this time I was feeling pretty good about us knitting. Becca found a knitting group called Stitch and Bitch at a local yarn store. So we packed up our aluminum needles and acrylic yarn and joined the group. When we walked into the yarn shop it was like a light shined from above and the angles sang Halleluiah. We learned several things that day. Yarn can me made out of more than just acrylic, needles can have cords and be made out of other materials. The ladies in the group educated us. By the time we left that night we had been schooled!

We continued to visit the group and soon we learned how to make hats, gloves, sweaters and even SOCKS!